Once you slide that band of gold, silver, or platinum onto your finger on your wedding day, everything changes. It’s so much more than a pretty piece of metal; it’s a piece of your love story. For centuries, people have exchanged rings as a “sign of love and faithfulness,” just as the traditional vows say, and even the simplest gold band can hold a world of meaning.
“A wedding ring is a universal symbol of commitment. It shows the world the wearer is in a relationship without having to say a word,” says Sharon Schatner, a GIA diamond graduate at Filigree Jewelers in Minneapolis, Minnesota. “The wedding ring has also become a form of personal expression. It's a fashionable accessory you wear every day, and the ring you choose can convey a great deal about your personal style and values.”
Meet the Expert
Sharon Schatner is a GIA diamond graduate at Filigree Jewelers in Minneapolis, Minnesota. She’s a “rock nerd” at heart who fell into her dream job by following her bliss: gems and jewelry.
Below, we spoke with Schatner to help break down the history of wedding rings, from the earliest pieces to be documented to the ways modern couples are customizing their own sparklers. Read on for more.
The Ancient Origins of Wedding Rings
Happy couples have been exchanging rings for much longer than you think. “Historical texts suggest that ancient Egyptian and Greek couples exchanged rings in betrothal and marriage ceremonies,” says Schatner, adding that the first actual evidence of engagement and wedding rings comes via the Roman Empire. “Roman women were given two rings to announce engagement and marriage,” the jeweler explains. “Middle and lower class Roman brides had one ring to wear while at home doing chores that were made of iron, and one gold ring only to be worn when out in public.” These pieces were also typically worn on the fourth finger of the left hand because many ancient civilizations believed it connected directly to the heart.
It wasn't until medieval times that people started to wear gold rings with precious gems, like rubies and emeralds, to signify their relationship status. Gimmel rings, a two- or three-band ring set, became popular shortly thereafter: Women would wear one band during their engagement and add one or two more after marriage (similar to how it's done today!).
The Evolution of Diamond Wedding Rings
As it relates to the introduction of diamonds into the wedding space, it wasn’t until the 15th century that these stones became a widespread phenomenon. Schatner explains that while the first known diamond mines were located in India and mined for thousands of years, Europeans didn’t fall for them until diamond cutters began experimenting with a "new style." “Before this time, most diamonds were cut into smooth, rounded cabochon shapes,” she shares. However, given that the new style included facets—small planes cut on the surface of a stone to make the light bounce off the gem and sparkle—diamonds quickly became a must-have for wealthy people who wanted to show off their luxurious lifestyle.
That said, the first record of a diamond appearing in an engagement ring was in 1477, when Archduke Maximillian of Austria used one to pop the question to his bride. “Diamonds were still so rare that it was quite the flex to be able to propose with a diamond,” Schatner explains. “Although the idea of a diamond engagement ring caught on in aristocratic circles, it would be hundreds of years until the masses had access to diamonds.” And while Victorians loved a diamond moment, it wasn’t until the mid-20th century that they really took over as queen of the engagement and wedding ring.
The Rise of Modern Wedding Rings
Why are diamond wedding rings so popular today? We can credit DeBeers, the world’s largest diamond company, for much of the romance and sentimentality around diamond engagement and wedding rings. In 1947, their enduring “A diamond is forever” slogan changed the way couples felt about the stone and its prominence—it made diamonds more popular than ever. “The slogan succinctly summed up the durability of a diamond and successfully tied it to the emotional idea of a love that could be just as enduring as the stone,” says Schatner.
These precious stones continued to endure due to prominent placement in Hollywood movies and on movie stars; the prevalence of the diamond industry; and royal brides wearing enormous diamond rings which still continues today. “TV, movies, and social media reinforce the notion that diamonds are a status symbol,” explains Schatner. “On a daily basis, you can find celebrities on social platforms flashing their diamond jewelry [in an] engagement ring reveal, diamond studs, or diamond tennis bracelets and necklaces.” Influencers, too, continue to keep diamonds front and center, with popular Instagram accounts like Ring Concierge sharing the most stunning rocks worn by the coolest couples. Plus, new innovations like lab-created stones have made them more affordable and accessible.
Diamonds are also really gorgeous, simple as that. “Diamonds refract light in a way that no other gem does, so they sparkle in a way that no other gem can match,” Schatner says. “The fact that they are neutral in color helps to give them a universal appeal since it makes them easy to wear with all other jewelry. Diamonds go with any wardrobe, any outfit.” They are also classified as a 10 on the Mohs scale, making them the strongest gemstone available and strong enough to handle daily wear.
Modern-Day Ring Trends
Since there's a plethora of ring options in the wedding ring market today, it’s wise to find a piece that really suits you instead of following trends. With that being said, there are a few trends that are prevalent right now, ones that can help you land on a sparkler that's perfect for your union.
Unique Wedding Rings
Schatner says she’s noticed an increase in demand for vintage and antique wedding rings, whether that’s for the uniqueness of the design, the sustainability aspect, or the sentimentality of a vintage piece. “Fancy-shaped diamonds like ovals, pears, emerald and marquise cuts have been trending for a while,” she notes, adding that she predicts the radiant cut will take over in 2024. Diamond cutters are also experimenting with new shapes, including kites and hexagons, which have contributed to the rise of the unique engagement ring trend. Colored stones have increasingly become popular, to boot.
Diamond Rings for Men
Men, too, are having more fun with their wedding rings. “We see men wanting rings with more personality than a plain, classic gold band,” Schatner says. “They are gravitating to interesting patterns and textures and we are beginning to have more men ask for stones in their rings, including diamonds.” The jeweler further shares that she’s noticed men wearing significantly more jewelry than in past years. “I believe that will translate to more men challenging traditional ideas and gender norms of what a men’s wedding band should look like.”
Custom Wedding Rings
Lastly, one of the biggest ring trends to date (and one we think will continue to grow) is custom wedding rings. “Consumers now use computers to instantly see customized versions of a dream home, a sneaker, or a new haircut,” says Schatner, so why not use technology to create a piece you'll wear forever? Young people, in particular, especially like the experience of designing a bauble since no one else will have a ring like theirs.
If you’re planning to create a custom wedding ring, know what you like—and what you don’t like—in a ring. Not into silver or white gold? Big fan of a marquise cut? Work with your hands? These are all important things to note, as they may play a role in your eventual design.
“The easiest way to get clear on the design you want is to visit a jeweler and try on a variety of styles,” advises Schatner. “A skilled jeweler can help to interpret your preferences as well as explain what is possible and what limitations certain designs have.” Most importantly, factor in your lifestyle when executing your design. “If you wear surgical gloves every day for work, a stack of bands might be a better fit for you than a tall solitaire," Schatner explains.
Our final piece of advice? Always remember that trends are great for today, but your wedding ring is forever, so make it something you love.